Retrospectively, Hillsborough Street has been in a state of flux. This holds true for the ornamental facade that was once the Varsity Theater. Since its grand opening in 1941, the building has seen many faces.

“Eventually, it converted to a Studio 1 theater,” alumnus Gary Bryant said. “Then it became a McDonald’s in the mid-80s, which closed in the mid-90s when the street was at an all-time low. Later it was a bookstore. In the last few years, it’s been sitting there empty for the landlord trying to find the right thing to take over the space.”

For Bryant, NC State was like home. Bryant finds himself back on Hillsborough Street after recently opening H-Street Kitchen, a gastropub and American kitchen, with visions of revitalization.

“I had a couple of different concepts, but I really liked the H-Street name, because no one really refers to Hillsborough Street as H-Street,” Bryant said. “I wanted it to be grounded in its commitment. This is not a chain; it’s not something we’re going to replicate. I want it to be really tied to the community it serves.”

The landmark that is H-Street Kitchen is quickly becoming a choice destination for quality, competitively priced food. Influenced by Bryant’s fondness of NC State and his penchant for a great meal, the restaurant delivers an unmatched dining experience.

“The way the building was built initially, the vaulted ceiling was really special,” Bryant said. “Nobody had really seen the architecture of the building when the theater was inside. I decided to expose the ceiling and all the brick and let the original architecture talk. It’s been a fun project.”

The architecturally striking building seats nearly 200, featuring mezzanine seating, a private dining room and two outside patios. Naturally, one can sit on the floor seating, among an exposed kitchen and bar.

“I’ve been doing a lot of executive restaurant consulting and I’ve been really intrigued with exposed kitchens, especially in this space,” Bryant said. “It’s about the food; I wanted the kitchen to be a part of the overall experience of the restaurant. With that type of space, it worked out great. People not only like to see where their food comes from, but how it’s prepared.”

After pursuing a small restaurant concept in the late 1980s, Bryant remained in the restaurant industry. When the developers on Hillsborough called him about the space, Bryant jumped on the idea.

“As an NC State graduate, I remembered when Hillsborough Street had a lot of energy and activity,” Bryant said. “We thought this could be something really fun and lasting for the street. I’m hoping that your generation will remember Hillsborough Street as an experience — not just a street.”

According to Bryant, NC State helped him learn about management and people. For the entirety of his college career, he served as the student manager for the NC State men’s basketball team under basketball coach Jim Valvano.

“It was a lot of responsibility, but a lot of fun,” Bryant said. “Coach Valvano taught me a lot about life and people. Just by being a student manager for the basketball team, I had gone to 23 states while I was a student for away games. It was an amazing experience for a kid who was a lifetime Wolfpack fan.”

According to Bryant, Hillsborough was known for its venues, restaurants and bars.

“It was a place that created a lot of fun time for the student body,” Bryant said. “There aren’t a lot of spaces like this on Hillsborough Street. We’ve seen a lot of alumni, and we’re hoping the students will adopt the space as a scene to watch games, bring their families, go out on a date and just enjoy the venue.”

The menu caters to the masses, tempting the most finicky palate. Selections such as the sesame shrimp toast, chipotle lime hummus and burgers are among a few of the patrons’ favorites. The burgers are made of all-natural Angus beef, antibiotic and hormone-free. They are served between locally baked hamburger buns aside freshly cut fries or chips. The “Highway 64” burger is a nod to the burgers served at Johnson’s Drive-In of Siler City, one of Bryant’s favorites. American cheese, lettuce, tomato and onion sit atop the patty which is drizzled with H-Street’s secret sauce. Bryant’s go-to burger is the “Bordelaise,” with a red wine beef demi-glace, mozzarella and provolone.

Remedy homesickness with “Missing Mama,” featuring all-natural roasted turkey, stuffing, green beans, shallots, gravy and cranberry sauce.

Alternatively, vegetarians will find solace in several of the menu offerings, such as the veggie burger “Veggie for Life” and the seared spinach cakes.  

“The spinach cakes are probably one of my favorite dishes on the menu,” Bryant said. “It’s really, really good. It has a nice flavor profile. The spinach cakes are like a crab cake in design, but used with spinach and served over a warm lentil salad, oven roasted tomatoes and feta cheese.”

To compliment the dishes, H-Street offers craft beers on draft and in the bottle, as well as wine on tap. Gaze over the marble bar and you’ll find a robust liquor selection.  

“I’ve visited H-Street Kitchen five times since they’ve opened and have experienced nothing but phenomenal customer service, superb handcrafted beverage execution and finger-licking good food,” said Brad Guidry, 2015 alumnus of College of Design. “I was first impressed by the ‘Torched Gin Fizz,’ handcrafted by Devon — the sweetest bartender in Raleigh.”

Two of the 16 taps are dedicated to red and white wines.

“Because the wine is in a tap system, it maintains its qualities and you don’t have the carbon footprint issue with throwing away wine bottles,” Bryant said.

The dishes are designed with a student’s wallet in mind. H-Street will be featuring specials on a regular basis and plans to implement online ordering in the future.

“H-Street Kitchen is a perfect addition to Hillsborough Street,” Guidry said. “Between the revitalization of that area, the atmosphere, the delicious food, the delectable beverages and the legendary customer service, H-Street is here to stay.”

The interior is an open, delicately lit, modern space, adorned with a brick accent wall painted with the NC State mascot.

“There are not many buildings that have the kind of interior feel and presence that this building has,” Bryant said. “The theater will have its 75th birthday this November, so we’re definitely going to do fun things for its birthday.”

In the future, Bryant will be developing the former McDaids space into a concept.

“There are some good dining options on Hillsborough, but there aren’t enough great establishments,” Bryant said. “I want to create those establishments that you’ll love when you’re in college and you’ll love 20 years from now.”

H-Street Kitchen is open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m.-10 p.m. and Friday through Saturday, 11a.m.-midnight. To find out more, visit their website.