In the South, grandma’s cooking is perhaps one of the most cherished traditions. The scent of homemade pies and stews fills the air, grabbing hold of the senses and refusing to let go.
This regard for family recipes can be found at Sitti, a traditional Lebanese restaurant that opened in downtown Raleigh in November 2008. Sitti means grandmother, and portraits of the owners’ grandmothers hang on the walls as a subtle reminder of the importance of the matriarch.
Sitti is the product of collaboration between the Saleh family, owners of the Raleigh area’s Neomonde restaurants, and Greg Hatem, a downtown Raleigh developer and CEO of Empire Foods. According to Sitti’s website, the team’s goal is to create an establishment that “honors those ancestors and carries on the Lebanese tradition of welcoming guests with delicious food and endless hospitality.”
Sitti’s interior is visually stunning — red and yellow glass orbs and decorative lanterns keep the light in the dining room dimmed but functional, and several untouched hookahs add an even more Middle Eastern flair. A long, family style dining table centered in the middle of the restaurant recalls the theme of communion, and the restored bar counter creates a beautiful, urban ambiance complimentary of a blooming downtown scene.
The menu borrows some of Neomonde’s best-selling items and is comprised of popular Lebanese dishes such as shawarma and kabobs. The menu combines traditional Lebanese food with modern tastes, including house made pizzettes, or pizza-like flatbreads topped with veggies, meat and cheese. Hot and cold mezze, or appetizers, and salads offer samplings of Lebanese staples, while entrées of fish, chicken, lamb and steak round off the menu. Main entrées range from $10 to $19, and feature fresh, distinctly Lebanese ingredients.
Being a vegetarian, I opted for hummus — pureed chickpeas whipped with tahini, garlic and lemon juice. I make a point to order hummus each time I try a new Mediterranean place, as it’s a fairly reliable gauge by which to judge the overall experience. To be honest, I never expect anything special because crushed chickpeas are crushed chickpeas, and hummus is pretty standard. The lemon juice threw me for a delicious loop as the tangy citrus mixed with the robust flavors of the tahini and garlic. Paired with the warm, fluffy pita served gratis, this hummus set the bar for the rest of the meal.
When my grilled vegetable kabobs finally made it to the table (I was left stranded and hungry for a good 40 minutes), I couldn’t have asked for better presentation. The rice, blended with vermicelli noodles and topped with roasted almonds, was neatly piled on one side of the plate. Two vegetable kabobs — a generous portion of squash, zucchini, onions and tomatoes — framed the plate, while loose, grilled red onions and diced tomatoes filled the remaining space. The veggies were a little overcooked and a little too doused in olive oil, but ultimately managed to retain a pleasant crispness that contrasted the smooth texture of the rice.
Raleigh is known for its diverse culinary scene, but only one culinary genre reigns supreme — Mediterranean. Sitti has its fair share of restaurant rivalries, but an unbeatable combination of style, tradition and good food brings it to the forefront of the competition.
Located on S. Wilmington Street, the openness of the dining room compliments the downtown location, but as I quickly learned, Sitti gets loud and crowded during peak mealtimes. Occasionally, conversations can get difficult. If the dining room is too loud, the outdoor dining patio is an option, and private accommodations located downstairs can be reserved for great parties.
It may be a long way from Lebanon to Raleigh, but with good Lebanese food and even better company, the vineyards and olive groves are a little closer to home.
